MID-OCEAN BETWEEN NEW YORK AND GLASGOW
At the close of the evening we sang "Auld Lang Syne", every one standing and joining hands during the
last verse. In the last line of the verse, some of us broke the line accidentally, myself among the
number, and by some mischance in the confusion got our hands mismatched. What was my horror and consternation
when it was over to discover that I was grasping both hands fervently of a young man next me. I
know it was not my fault and I hope it was not his. Imagine me, the prude!
SCOTLAND
...The coast of Scotland is exquisite and we steamed slowly up the Clyde, drinking in the lovely scenery
with all our hearts. It is very different from the Irish coast, being wooded on all the hills - pretty
fir plantations in every direction. The mountains in the distance with mist wreathes crowning their
summits added greatly to the general effect and the pretty villas and gentlemen's seats at their base were
built of old red sandstone and grey granite...
ROTTERDAM
...We went to the Museum of Paintings - almost all of the paintings were celebrated, some I was
delighted with - among them, the floating feather by Conde Goeriter(?) in which you seemed almost
able to blow the feather away it was so natural, a Magdeline, with the tears on her face so natural that
you feel tempted to wipe them away - Her eyes are all reddened from weeping and her lips are half
open and you can almost see the breath passing through them...
Lucy Minor Davis, London
Lucy Minor Davis, London
VENICE
...We saw in this church what Mr. C. says is the most horrible thing one would see in a six months'
tour in Europe. This seemed such a speech to make after all the dreadful things we had already seen,
such as the pictures of the skinning alive of saints, the boiling of St. Lawrence on the gridiron(?)
all the numberless horrors one sees in travelling, that I fairly dreaded to see it, and stood
trembling before the little red curtain, fearing to see the string pulled which should uncover it. Mr.
C. would not tell us what it was, but said, no matter what you may think it is, you will find it to be
worse even than your wildest imagination could possibly conceive. I felt a positive feeling of relief
when at last, all of us being arranged in a circle in front of it, he pulled the string of the red
curtain very slowly back and we saw a waxen figure covered with blood representing Christ
after the scourging. It was truly horrible when you saw only the terrible gaping wounds and the clots
of gore, but when you once looked up and saw the beautiful; loving; forgiving face above it all,
your feelings changed and you thought only of the wonderful love which had borne all this so
uncomplainingly and patiently. I was glad I saw it after all and shall never forget it.
FLORENCE
Miss R., A., Coz. L. and myself joined the Jefts and some friends of theirs in section D and we took
two carriages and went to a little Methodist Chapel, the Episcopal service having been held at 9 o'clock.
When we got there, I observed that the Lord's Prayer, creed, and Ten Commandments were all in Italian,
so began to suspect that the service would also be in Italian and when the congregation filed in and I
saw that we were the only foreigners in the church, my convictions were strengthened. Presently a dark
haired, black-eyed Italian began to preach and he delivered us a lengthy and voluble discourse
in Italian. It was too late for us to beat a retreat as we had ordered the carriages to call for us at a
certain hour and it was too far to walk. So we stood our ground and listened attentively to the long
discourse, of which we understood not a word. A polite Italian gave us books and we followed the hymns and
rose and sat when the others did although Cousin Lucy did kneel in the creed and attempt to stand in the
Lord's Prayer. When the minister sat down after his sermon was over, another minister arose and made a
little address to the people of a few minutes' duration at the end of which I distinguished the
words "Salute Americans" and what was my surprise when the benediction was pronounced to see the
entire congregation rush up and begin shaking hands violently with us. It was all done in solemn
silence for we could not understand them or they us, but with a great deal of gesticulating and
grimacing on both sides. Then the ministers came down and introduced themselves to us and their names
were Theophilus Gay and Bartelli. It seems that the pew full of eight Americans in this little chapel
of Italians had excited attention and the minister wished his congregation to welcome us to Florence. It
is a mission chapel and under American auspices. This was quite a pleasant little experience and made
you feel the unity of the Christian Church, even in foreign lands. I felt as if we all belonged to one large
family.
The traveling party in Paris, August 28, 1884
(Lucy Minor Davis and Lucy Lee Trice at right in front row)
NAPLES
...On Friday we took our places on the steamer "Tifeo" for our visit to Capri and Sorrento - I shall
never forget that day of days. I really think the Naples part of our trip is the cream of the whole
trip. A good many little boys, dressed in extremely scanty bathing garments came around the ship and
clamoured for pennies to be thrown in for them to dive for. They got a bountiful supply for they dived
so wonderfully well that the gentlemen could not resist them. They would dive down and bring the
penny or ½ lira up before it reached the bottom, in their mouths. It was really very amusing to watch
them and for fully a half an hour we amused ourselves with them, some throwing lumps of sugar and
others pennies to the little mermen, for they really were more like fish than anything else and water
seemed to be their natural element. The view of the bay is very beautiful and the water of the Mediterranean
was so exquisitely blue and beautifully glittering in the Italian sunlight. Oh! the whole thing was
such a dream of delight.
BAY OF NAPLES
...I forgot to say that the first anthem which was sung on the steamer on the Bay of Naples, for we had a
couple of Italian singers on board with guitars, was "Santa Lucia." I thought it rather a funny coincidence
as they had always called it my song at home...
VESUVIUS
The next day was indeed a memorable one, for we went to Vesuvius! This is a never to be forgotten day and one
of which every instant was an increasing delight...
...I shall never forget the grand view as we wound round and round the sides of Vesuvius, the whole
plain spread out below, with the Bay of Naples beyond, Capri and Ischia and Procida in the distance, the
heights of San Carlo to the left, Posilippo and Sorrento further round - the Bay and village of Baie,
the little towns of Resina and Castella Mare and Naples itself down below. It was indeed sublime and
magnificent and then we neared the top and saw the mountainous masses of lava, piled up in queer shapes
of all sorts and reminding one of a picture of the flood with all the dead bodies of man and beast left
behind in one mingled mass of limbs in every position...
... At last we gained the summit and looked down into the huge cavernous opening which was belching out fire,
smoke and stones all the time. We looked up through the vast column of smoke which was rising and saw the sun
like a large red ball, it looked like an eclipse when you see it through smoked glass. We were looking
up to see how high the red hot stones were thrown when I perceived it and said, 'Why look at the moon,
Mr. Barnard,' he looked and said it's the sun but how singularly it looks and then we discovered the reason.
While we were standing quite close to the edge, trying to see down the mouth of the crater, the mountain gave
a roar and sent out a volume of smoke, fire and stones, one of which falling on my dress
burned a hole in it. Mr. Barnard was trying to press a penny into a red hot piece of lava, but when
he discovered the danger we were in he stopped and pulled me hastily down the side of the mountain till quite
out of reach of the fire...
MILAN
At a given signal, the immense machinery was set in motion and the huge silver side of the coffin began to rise.
I was uncertain whether to run or stay, but as Mr. C. spoke of the beautiful jewelled cross given by Pope
somebody or other, and the other grand jewels by King so and so, my curiosity was too much for me, so I
consented to stay. The side slowly rose and the embalmed body of Carlo was exposed to our view in a glass coffin.
He was richly dressed and a beautiful jewelled cross lay on his breast, the whole body was sprinkled
with magnificent jewels and until I saw the head, I did not think it a repulsive sight, but when I
saw the brown, shrivelled, mummy-like face, I did feel a shudder of repugnance, the hair had long
departed and the withered flesh clung to the bones, the eyeless sockets, etc. giving the effect of
a skull covered with brown leather. I am afraid I shall picture it sometimes at night, when the lights
are out.
BETWEEN COMO AND BELLAGIO
We saw snow capped mountains all around us being now fairly in the Alps. The spurs of the Alps were the
mountains all around us at Como. They towered about us till we had to stretch our necks to see the tops
and every few minutes, we would pass a lovely little cascade tumbling down the side, making five or
six leaps from rock to rock as it came. Oh how I did wish for Dab! He always delights so in fine scenery
and this was so wild and grand...
Hotel Mountain Vert, Mer De Glace, Switzerland
Lucy Lee Trice had lunch here.
LUCERNE, SWITZERLAND
We now proceeded to the cathedral to hear Professor Meyer (the most noted organist, they say, of the present
day) play on the great organ. We spent an hour in listening to his wonderful concert and it really seemed
scarcely fifteen minutes. I am so glad I heard him, for, even with my poor ear for music, it seemed
perfectly wonderful. I felt at times as if he was playing on my heart strings, the music affected me
so strangely. You could hear the storm in the mountains until you almost believed you were out in
it. The thunder crashed and reverberated through the building, then muttered and grumbled away in
the distance.
Sometimes, it would begin low and, gathering volume as it came near, would roll out grandly at the last.
It seemed strange not to see the lightning. The wind, too, among the trees - you could almost hear the leaves
rustle. It was the most perfect imitation of a storm and I believed all the noise and tumult. You seemed able
to distinguish sharp cries of pain and torment, as if all the demons of the air were let loose and were
shrieking and raving together amid the fury of the heavens.
Grand as it was, however, the storm was nothing to the imitation of voices of the vox humana stop. I could
not believe that it really was only the organ and asked Cousin Lucy, who sat beside me, if there was not
a choir behind the organ somewhere. It sounded like a beautiful chorus of angel voices, for no human could
have been so pure and sweet.
Sometimes, you would hear, quite distinctly, a man's high tenor voice, then a woman's low, sweet
voice seemed to sound through the church and all the time the organ would keep up a low musical
accompaniment, almost dying away sometimes, then swelling up richly and grandly again.
They had the Hallelujah Chorus and at last wound up with God Save the Queen. We all drew a long breath
when it was over, our feelings had been in such a state of tension all the time and, for a little while
it seemed almost wrong to talk loud. I wished for only one person all the time, and then the thought came
over me that she was hearing real angel music, sweeter than anything we could hear in this world of
turmoil and strife.
THE ALPS
...The drive was delightful in the fresh morning air and none of us regretted our early rising but felt
more than paid by the pleasure of the drive. We drove for about three miles and then found ourselves
at the mouth of the gorge. We entered a little opening in the mouth of the gorge and found ourselves
on a narrow hanging bridge fastened to the wall of rock which formed the side of the gorge. The gorge ran
right through the mountain and a river ran foaming and crawling along the whole way. This was the Trient
itself. The whole thing was very grand, the rocks towered up on each side above our heads and the
little bridge wound in and out around the jutting points and curves of the rock. At the end was a waterfall.
The whole thing impressed you with its might and grandeur and it seemed wonderful to be going on this
tiny, apparently frail little bridge strung up by wire ropes over the roaring, foaming, furious stream and
to look up and see the mighty masses of rock above us. One felt alone with nature, in the interior of
this cavernous gorge, shut out from sight of the world...
AUSTRIA TO STYRIA
...The next morning, we started bright and early for our trip through the Semmering Pass. This was
even finer than I expected, grand towering mountains and peaceful valley scenery intermixed,
torrents rushing down the sides of the mountain, deep gorges and ravines and lasting for miles and miles.
Such grand, sublime scenery, oh I did enjoy it so intensely! We went through a long tunnel called the
gates of Styria because it leads direct from Austria into Styria. The railroad is a wonderful thing
winding in, out, and around the mountains as it does, through numerous tunnels, over wonderful bridges,
on mountain ledges, with precipices above and beneath us. The whole day was a wonderful series of delights
to me. I shall never cease to be thankful for this summer, it will be something to look back on all my
life with such pleasure. It is such a happy experience...
Approximate route of Lucy Lee Trice's tour of Europe in 1884
(map ca. 1890)
FRANCE
...A little further on we met a French funeral, that of a little child. I was touched by it, for though the
procession was a small one composed of simple French peasants, grief and sorrow are the same all the world over.
There were one or two priests and a sister or so in the little procession. I have since seen grand funerals
in Paris, the coffin covered with white satin etc. and followed by long processions of carriages, but none
which touched me as much as this did...
VERSAILLES
...The most interesting thing in the palace to me was a statue of the last days of Napoleon by Vela, an
Italian artist. It represented Napoleon sitting in an arm chair propped up with pillows and very emaciated,
his neck open and showing the bone and swollen veins, a map in his hand in which his thin finger is tracing
the lines. I shall never forget it, such a touching wreck of his former power and yet with so much remaining
in the sick, weak form of the fire which once animated it...
Lucy Lee Trice (right) and Lucy Minor Davis, Paris,
August 28, 1884
PARIS
...We went three times to the Russian Church. The choir you never see and the service, which is all
choral and in Greek is conducted without any organ whatever. The effect is very beautiful. I never
heard singing anywhere like it. It is a kind of chanting; only on a few notes, but the harmony is perfect.
The rise and swell of the voices and the gradual dying away is perfect. It thrills you all through and you
breathe a long sigh, almost of relief when it is over, you feel so wrought up by the effort of trying not
to miss any of the beautiful sound, so solemn and melodious. It sounds as one would imagine the far off
chanting of angels to be...
NOTRE DAME
...We then went back into the dear old church and spent a long time wandering about and looking again
at the interesting statues, the high altar etc., hating to say goodbye to it. At last we sat down in front
of the altar and tried to recall some of the old times and to feel the spirit of the place, but I don't
think we succeeded very well. It is not easy to do in this busy, bustling 19th Century.
WINDSOR CASTLE
...The first building we entered was St.George's Chapel, a beautiful old pile(?). The most interesting
and beautiful monument here was that of the poor Princess Charlotte and represented her as lying dead
on a couch with weeping female friends hanging over her, just above was her spirit looking down on the scene.
The light was from a stained glass at the back and the effect was striking. I don't know if it was a
skilfully arranged reflection of colours from the window or merely accidental, but the violet light
fell softly on the grief-stricken group and the rigid figure while the ascending winged spirit seemed
bathed in a golden glory.
THE NORTH SEA
...The night was lovely and after stowing away our wraps, etc., in our cabins, we returned to deck where
we staid for a long time watching the moonlight over the water and the phosphorus as the little boat cut
her way through the waves. Mr. Barnard took us to the prow and we all enjoyed the beauty of the night for
a long time. The North Sea was like a lake and we had a beautiful passage...
...The Spanish artist at Mrs. Dawson's finally asked Lucy yesterday to sit for him, for her picture.
She declined saying that she would willingly gratify him but there was no time as we left early Monday.
He eagerly rejoined that if she would favor him with a sitting he would work all day today. Lucy exclaimed
at that, "Why Mr. Feurey, it is Sunday" - "No matter, you shall read one Bible, Mrs. Dawson shall say
respondes, and I will sing - we will have one church." Lucy compromised at least by sitting for him for
a sketch yesterday forenoon - no small sacrifice of that last day in London. Lucy Minor Davis to her sister, Lizzie davis, September 1884
